Services · Cooktops
Gas and Induction Cooktop Repair
A gas cooktop usually fails at one burner: its spark, its flame or its simmer. Induction fails in the electronics, yet many induction calls end at the pan, the power supply or the air underneath. We repair both in place, lifting a top out of the stone only when needed.
$79 service call, applied to the repair. Monday to Saturday, 8 AM to 7 PM.
- $79service call, applied to the repair you approve
- In-housesealed-system work: compressors, evaporators, leaks
- Since 2022CA BHGS #50388, EPA-certified
- 90 daysno-fee return visit if the same fault comes back
In short: on gas, notice which burners click and when; that usually narrows it to one burner's switch, electrode or cap. On induction, try a pan a magnet sticks to, remember that paired zones share power, and make sure nothing presses against the underside. With a gas smell, skip the checks and call from outside.
Which kind of cooktop you have
Across Orange County we repair tops from Wolf, Thermador, Miele, Monogram, Viking, Dacor, Gaggenau, Fisher & Paykel, JennAir and Bertazzoni.
| Type | Power | Where the working parts are | What fails most |
|---|---|---|---|
| Gas cooktop | A 120-volt plug in the cabinet below, for the spark | Valves and burners in a box under the top, spark module under it | Ignition, flame and simmer at one burner |
| Gas rangetop | Its own 120-volt circuit | Valves behind the front knob panel; it may be held by brackets or screws to the cabinet | The same, plus a griddle, grill or French top |
| Induction | Hardwired, 208 or 240 volts | Coils under the glass, power boards and fans below them | Fans, power boards, touch controls, cracked glass |
| Radiant electric | Hardwired, 240 volts | Elements under the glass, each with a heat limiter | Elements, limiters, switches |
Brand detail is on Wolf cooktops, Miele induction, Thermador and Gaggenau. Burners over an oven: see professional range repair; the rest is on all services.
Gas cooktops: read the symptom first
| What you see | What it usually points to | What you can do |
|---|---|---|
| Every burner sparks with all knobs off | Where burners share a spark module, water in one valve switch or a switch stuck closed. Where each burner has its own module, as on Wolf dual fuel ranges, a wet switch clicks only its own burner, so the ground or wiring is next | Switch off the breaker, let it dry for a day, and call if it still clicks |
| Nonstop sparking ever since it was installed | An outlet without a proper ground or with reversed polarity | Call; the fix is at the outlet |
| One burner keeps sparking after it lights | A wet, dirty or cracked electrode, a cap off its seat, or blocked ports | Reseat the cap; clean and dry the burner |
| Sparks but no flame on any burner | Gas shut off at the valve, or a supply or regulator problem | Call us. If your other gas appliances are out too, call the gas company. Do not open or close gas valves yourself. |
| No spark anywhere | No power at the outlet below, a tripped breaker, or the spark module | Check the breaker and the plug |
| Flame dies the moment you let go of the knob | On tops with a thermocouple safety the knob must be held in briefly; past that, the thermocouple | Hold the knob in a few seconds longer after it lights |
| Pops or goes out on the lowest setting | A cap not seated, food in the simmer ports, or a draft from a window or hood | Reseat and clean, close the window, turn the hood down |
| Yellow, lifting or roaring flames | Caps, ports, blocked air openings, or orifices set for the other gas; faint yellow tips are normal on propane | Reseat and clean the caps. If the flame stays yellow, lifting or roaring, stop using that burner and call. Leave orifices alone. |
| A burner relights itself while you cook | A dirty electrode or burner, a draft, or a chafed electrode lead touching metal | Clean and dry it; close windows |
Some clicking is by design: Thermador ExtraLow burners cycle the flame at their lowest settings. Brand pages: Thermador clicking, Wolf and Viking burners.
What we repair on a gas cooktop
Ignition parts
What it usually is: a valve switch worn or wet, an electrode cracked or crusted, a lead chafed, or a module that sparks weakly or not at all.
What you can check: keep spray cleaner and water off the white ceramic electrodes, and after a spill let the top dry for a day before suspecting a part.
What we do: test the spark, switch, lead, module and outlet, and replace only the failed part.
Valves, knobs and electronic simmer
What it usually is: a stiff knob, one that will not press in for the simmer range, a valve gummed by spills, or a faint gas smell at a knob. On some older Thermador tops the simmer controls behind the knobs can only be replaced as a matched set, so one burner's fault can mean a larger repair, and we say so before ordering.
What you can check: only that the knob is clean. Valves are never an owner repair, and a gas smell means leaving the house and calling from outside.
What we do: replace the valve or the simmer parts and leak-test every fitting we opened.
Caps, rings and seals
What it usually is: caps pitted by acidic spills, cracked rings, a head off its locating pin, or worn seals.
What you can check: caps seated flat and ports clear.
What we do: replace damaged parts and confirm a steady blue flame from high to simmer.
Rangetop griddles, grills and French tops are covered on professional range repair, and Monogram rangetops on Monogram range repair.
What we repair on an induction cooktop
Some of what induction does is by design: fans run during and after cooking, low settings click, many pans hum on high, and a zone left on for hours switches itself off. Makers differ in how zones are paired on boards, how the top comes out of the counter and whether cracked glass is sold alone; brand detail is on Wolf cooktops and Miele induction.
A zone that will not start
Most often it is the pan, which must be magnetic and near the zone's size: move it to another zone and hold a fridge magnet to its base. A zone that rejects every pan has a coil or board fault, and we measure the coil before any board is ordered.
Shutting off part way through cooking
The electronics are protecting themselves from heat, usually because a drawer or oven below leaves less clearance than the maker asks for, or a cooling fan has slowed. Check that nothing below touches the underside and that the fans start once you cook; we test the fans and the air path against the installation clearances.
Two zones dead together, or a tripping breaker
Many tops drive zones in pairs, so two dead zones on one side point to that pair's power board, as on the Miele KM 5773, though a loose supply terminal can do the same. Turn the breaker off and back on, one time only; we check the incoming power at the cooktop's connection before the boards, since a shorted power board can take the control board with it.
Touch keys that stop responding, or cracked glass
Water, a spill, a pan on the touch strip or the control lock is often the cause rather than the touch board, so wipe the area dry and look for a lock symbol. Do not cook on cracked glass, since liquid can reach the electronics; some tops take new glass on its own and others a whole top assembly, and we price that next to a new cooktop.
Working on a cooktop set in stone
Most gas repairs are done from above or from the cabinet below. Induction boards and coils usually mean lifting the top out. Cooktops are held by clips, screws or adhesive, and flush-mount tops sit in a rebate in the stone, so we ask how yours is fitted before quoting, protect the counter and reseal it afterward.
The cutout is also why repairs often pay: a new cooktop must fit the same opening, and on a flush or custom-cut install a different size can mean new stone. Cracked glass plus dead boards on an older top is when replacing makes sense.
Stay safe. If you smell gas, leave the house and call the gas company or 911 from outside. Leave the burner box, the orifices and the gas connection under the counter to a technician. Induction electronics keep stored power after the breaker is off, so do not open the cooktop's underside.
What cooktop repair costs
The $79 service call is applied to the repair once you approve the written price. Common spark parts are on the van; induction boards, coils and glass are ordered, usually in a few business days.
Cooktop repair (gas and induction)
| Repair | Typical price, parts and labor |
|---|---|
| Igniter or spark switch | $250 to $450 |
| Spark module | $300 to $600 |
| Burner valve | $350 to $650 |
| Induction cooling fan | $350 to $650 |
| Induction coil | $500 to $1,000 |
| Induction power board | $650 to $1,400 |
Typical Orange County ranges for parts and labor. The $79 service call is applied to any of them. Parts that ship from the manufacturer and older or discontinued models can run higher. You get the exact written price after the diagnosis and before any work starts.
Other appliances: pricing.
How a cooktop visit works
- Book. Say whether it is gas or induction and which burner or zone misbehaves; the model from the label under the top helps. See contact.
- Diagnosis. Grates, caps or pans come off, the counter is covered, and we test the ignition or the zones.
- Written price. Before any work you see parts, labor and lead time in writing, and it stays the same once work starts.
- Repair and test. Every burner is lit from high to simmer and every zone is run with a pan. The repair carries our parts and labor warranty, and a return for the same fault within 90 days has no service-call fee.
Talk to the technician first
Monday to Saturday, 8 AM to 7 PM. The $79 service call is applied to the repair.
Cooktop repair: questions
Is it worth repairing an induction cooktop?
Usually, when the fault is a fan, a coil or one board, especially if a new top would not fit the cutout.
Why does one induction zone turn down when I use the one next to it?
The two zones share a power board and its limit, so boosting one lowers the other. That is normal.
Why do my pans spin or slide on the induction cooktop?
Usually because the pan is light or its base is warped or uneven, especially on high or boost. A pan set off-center on the zone, or a top that is not level, makes it worse.
My new gas cooktop clicks nonstop. Why?
On a fresh install it is usually the outlet: no proper ground, or reversed polarity, both of which the spark module needs to sense the flame.
Do you repair radiant electric glass cooktops?
Yes. Elements that cycle on and off are normal; a dead element, a limiter that trips early or a worn switch is the usual fault.
Will an induction cooktop work on a 208-volt condo supply?
Yes, with noticeably less power than on 240 volts, so boiling takes longer; that is the building's supply, not a fault.