Miele · Cooktops
Miele Induction Cooktop Repair
A Miele induction cooktop rarely fails all at once. The usual complaints are a zone that will not heat, a cooktop that switches itself off, or an FE code, and many of those come down to the pan, the air under the cooktop or the power supply before any board is involved.
$79 service call, applied to the repair. Monday to Saturday, 8 AM to 7 PM.
- $79service call, applied to the repair you approve
- In-housesealed-system work: compressors, evaporators, leaks
- Since 2022CA BHGS #50388, EPA-certified
- 90 daysno-fee return visit if the same fault comes back
In short: test the pan with a magnet, wipe the touch keys dry, and keep the space under the cooktop clear. FE with a number is a hardware fault; write it down. If zones are dead or the lock dot flashes, switch the breaker off and on once.
Which Miele induction cooktop you have
Miele cooktop models start with KM; the data plate is on the underside, usually visible from the cabinet below. This page covers the KM 5773: 36 inches, five induction zones under black glass in a stainless frame, plus and minus keys for each zone, and a light ring around each zone showing the level. It runs on a 208 or 240 volt circuit.
Other KM induction models heat the same way but do not share every code, so give us the full model number when you call. If a Miele oven sits below the cooktop, see Miele oven repair.
How it is built
Under each zone is a flat coil with its own temperature sensor. Its magnetic field heats the base of a magnetic pan directly, and the glass only gets hot from the pan. A tiny test pulse tells each zone whether a suitable pan is there and how big it is.
- Three power boards drive the coils: one for the two left zones, one for the two right zones, one for the rear center. Each heat sink has its own temperature sensor.
- Two control boards run the power boards: the left one drives the left pair of zones, the right one the right pair and the rear center.
- A selection board under the front glass reads the keys with infrared light, so water, dirt or a pan on the keys confuses it.
- Two cooling fans move air across the heat sinks and speed up as they warm.
There are no clips; the cooktop rests in the cutout under its own weight.
Things that look like faults and are not
| What you see | What it means |
|---|---|
| A pan symbol alternating with 0 | No suitable pan; the zone switches off after three minutes. |
| The level flashes between two numbers | The zone is very hot, often a pan boiling dry, and its power was cut back. |
| Every zone flashes 0 and its setting | The electronics are too hot; all zones resume once they cool. |
| Every zone drops to 1 | Stop and Go: the lock key was held for two seconds. Touch it again. |
| The cooktop will not switch on | The system lock: hold the lock key for five seconds, or with both right-hand plus keys if a three-finger lock is set. |
| A zone turns off on its own after hours | The safety shutoff, from about ten hours at level 1 to one hour at level 12. |
| Clicking at low settings, a hum on high | Low levels are made by pulsing the field, which clicks. Many pans hum on high. |
F and FE displays on the KM 5773
F or FE appears in the zone displays, the detail number in the timer display. Meanings below are for the KM 5773; other models differ. After a hardware fault the residual heat warning may stay dark even on a hot zone.
| Display | What it means | What you can do |
|---|---|---|
| F flashing, beep every 30 seconds | A key was covered for about ten seconds, or several at once: a pot, a towel, a spill | Clear and dry the keys, then switch on. |
| A in the front displays, F1 to F4 at the rear | At power-up the keys could not adjust to the light: too bright, a flickering lamp, a pale object on the keys | Clear the glass and reduce the light; it retries. |
| F 11 or F 99 | A memory program had too many steps or ran past 99 minutes | Nothing is wrong. |
| FE 01 to FE 25, except 04, 08, 12, 16 | A touch key reads wrong: dirt between glass and board, or a failed key. A hot pan left on the key strip can cause it. | Clean the glass. If it stays, the selection board. |
| FE 30 with a steady beep, FE 31, FE 35 | A wiring or voltage fault at the connection, one leg of the supply missing, or low voltage; FE 31 and FE 35 can also be a cable or board | Switch the breaker off and on once, then call. |
| FE 32 to FE 34 | A ribbon cable or a board on the side where FE shows | Call if a breaker restart does not clear it. |
| FE 36, FE 38, FE 40 steady | The selection board or its harness to the control board | The same. |
| FE 41 to FE 45, FE 51 to FE 55 | A temperature sensor failed: on a power board's heat sink (41 to 45) or under one zone (51 to 55) | Call. |
| FE 60, FE 80, FE 81, FE 84 to FE 86 | A board or settings fault, or a cable between boards | Call. |
| FE 39, FE 40 flashing, or FE 00, 04, 08, 12, 16 or 76 in turn | The model setting in the electronics is wrong, usually after a board was replaced | A technician sets the model. |
| FE with other numbers in turn | Several sensor or hardware faults were logged at once, and the cooktop shut off for safety | Call; each number is checked. |
| FE 99 | Overheating: a pan boiled dry, blocked air underneath, a weak fan or a damaged zone sensor | Let it cool. If it repeats on normal cooking, call. |
What fails, from the most common
A zone will not heat or keeps losing the pan
What it usually is: the pan. Aluminum, copper, glass and non-magnetic stainless do not work, and a small or warped base is not recognized. If one zone ignores every good pan, its coil, sensor or board has failed.
What you can check: a magnet sticks firmly to the base, and the base covers most of the ring.
What we do: test with a known pan, then the coil, its sensor and the board.
Cutting out on long cooks, or FE 99
What it usually is: heat that cannot escape: a drawer packed against the underside, an oven below with no gap, lint in the fans, or a fan that has slowed.
What you can check: clear space underneath; listen for the fans after a few minutes on high.
What we do: run both fans at each speed, check the air path, and replace a weak fan.
Dead zones, FE 31 or a flashing lock dot: the supply
What it usually is: the connection. The cooktop needs both legs of its 208 or 240 volt supply and a jumper on its terminal block; a loose terminal, a missing jumper or a failing breaker can cause this.
What you can check: switch the breaker fully off and on once. If it trips again, leave it off.
What we do: measure the supply at the terminal block and repair the connection first.
A dead pair of zones: the power board
What it usually is: a failed power board. It can damage the control board that drives it, so that board is checked too and replaced only if damaged.
What we do: confirm which board failed, tell you the parts and lead time, and set up the new electronics for your model.
A charred coil or burnt coil contacts
What it usually is: a badly bowed pan that kept the sensor from reading the heat, or a loose coil terminal; either can take the power board with it.
What we do: replace the coil with its sensor and check the board.
Pans that spin or rattle usually mean the cooktop touches the cabinet below, is not level, or the pan base has bowed. Stop using a cracked top until it is replaced.
Repair or replace a Miele induction cooktop
| What failed | Our usual advice |
|---|---|
| Supply connection, a fan, the key board, a coil, or a power board with its control board | Usually repair, once the parts for your model are confirmed. |
| A cracked top on a cooktop that otherwise works | A new glass top is possible; we price it next to a new cooktop so you can compare. |
| A cracked top and dead boards on an older KM | Usually replace, with a model that fits your cutout. |
Stay safe. Do not lift the cooktop out or open its underside: the electronics can hold a charge after the breaker is off, and stone edges chip. With a pacemaker or other implanted device, ask your doctor about induction cooking. Keep foil and loose utensils off a zone that is on.
What Miele cooktop repair costs
You pay $79 for the trip and the diagnosis. It comes off the repair when you approve our written price, and that price holds once work begins. Miele parts usually arrive in a few business days; we tell you the lead time first.
Cooktop repair (gas and induction)
| Repair | Typical price, parts and labor |
|---|---|
| Igniter or spark switch | $250 to $450 |
| Spark module | $300 to $600 |
| Burner valve | $350 to $650 |
| Induction cooling fan | $350 to $650 |
| Induction coil | $500 to $1,000 |
| Induction power board | $650 to $1,400 |
Typical Orange County ranges for parts and labor. The $79 service call is applied to any of them. Parts that ship from the manufacturer and older or discontinued models can run higher. You get the exact written price after the diagnosis and before any work starts.
We are an independent service, not affiliated with Miele. See also cooktop repair, Wolf cooktops, pricing, error codes, Miele dishwasher codes and Miele repair.
Talk to the technician first
Monday to Saturday, 8 AM to 7 PM. The $79 service call is applied to the repair.
Miele induction cooktops: questions
What does FE 99 mean on a Miele cooktop?
The cooktop overheated and shut off, most often from a pan that boiled dry, and works again once cool. If it repeats on ordinary cooking, the fans, the air underneath or a zone sensor are checked.
Why does my Miele cooktop flash F and keep beeping?
Something covered the touch keys for several seconds, often a pot handle, a towel or a spill. Clear and dry the keys and switch the cooktop on again.
Why does one zone drop to 8 when I boost the zone next to it?
The two zones on each side share a power board with a fixed budget, so boosting one limits the other to level 8 or less until you turn it down.
Half of my Miele cooktop is dead. Is it a board?
Not always. The supply is checked first, because a problem at the connection can show FE 31 or a flashing lock dot. If the supply is good, the power board for that pair of zones is next.
Can you repair the cooktop without damaging my counter?
We take care to. The cooktop lifts out of the cutout from above, the stone edges and cabinets are protected while it is out, and it goes back level.